• Enclosure: A small, well-ventilated plastic enclosure works very well for a starting colony. A 6-quart enclosure is suitable for a small starter colony, with larger colonies eventually benefiting from additional space.

Provide plenty of surface area and hiding places using cork bark, pieces of hardwood, leaf litter, and other natural materials. Good ventilation is important, especially when maintaining a moisture gradient.

• Substrate: Use a deep, organic substrate that allows the isopods to burrow and provides food as it breaks down. A mixture containing pesticide-free organic soil, decaying hardwood, leaf litter, and sphagnum moss works well.

Aim for approximately 2–3 inches of substrate. Add a generous layer of dried hardwood leaves across the surface and provide pieces of decaying wood.

Keep one portion of the enclosure more moist while allowing the rest to remain noticeably drier.

• Ideal temperature: 70–80°F

Normal household temperatures are generally suitable. Avoid prolonged exposure to temperatures above the recommended range, particularly when ventilation or hydration is inadequate.

Higher temperatures increase the colony's need for available moisture.

• Humidity: Japanese Magic Potions prefer moderate humidity with a moisture gradient rather than an enclosure that is uniformly wet.

Keep roughly ¼–½ of the enclosure moist, with the remainder allowed to stay relatively dry. Sphagnum moss in the moist area provides an important hydration retreat.

Avoid keeping the entire enclosure constantly wet. Good ventilation combined with a moisture gradient allows the colony to regulate its own hydration.

• Diet: The foundation of their diet should be decaying hardwood and dried leaf litter. These should always be available.

Supplement with small amounts of vegetables such as carrots, squash, sweet potato, or other suitable produce. Additional protein can be offered periodically through foods such as dried shrimp, fish flakes, or other appropriate high-protein foods.

Remove fresh foods before they spoil or develop mold.

• Calcium Needs: Calcium is essential for healthy growth and successful molting.

Provide a constant source of calcium such as cuttlebone, crushed eggshell, calcium carbonate, or another appropriate calcium source. Calcium can also be supplied through properly formulated isopod diets and natural food sources.

A constant calcium source is preferable to relying on occasional supplementation alone.

• Common Mistake: Keeping the entire enclosure too wet.

Japanese Magic Potions are fairly tolerant of different moisture levels, but they still need access to a dry area. Constantly wet substrate can reduce ventilation, encourage mold and pests, and create unhealthy conditions.

A moisture gradient is much more useful than trying to keep the entire enclosure at one humidity level.

• Enclosure: A well-ventilated plastic enclosure works well for Dairy Cows. A 6-quart enclosure is appropriate for a starter colony, while larger colonies will eventually require additional space.

Provide plenty of hiding areas using cork bark, hardwood, leaf litter, and other natural materials. Dairy Cows are active and often spend considerable time on the surface, especially once the colony becomes established.

• Substrate: Use approximately 2–3 inches of organic substrate containing pesticide-free soil, decaying hardwood, and plenty of leaf litter.

Add pieces of decaying wood throughout the enclosure and maintain a section of sphagnum moss for additional moisture.

The substrate should be moist enough to support the colony without becoming waterlogged.

• Ideal temperature: 68–78°F

Dairy Cows generally do well at normal household temperatures. Temperatures around the upper portion of this range can encourage active feeding and reproduction.

Avoid direct sunlight and excessive heat, particularly in poorly ventilated enclosures.

• Humidity: Dairy Cows prefer moderate to moderately high humidity, but they should still have access to both moist and drier areas.

Keep one section of the enclosure moist using sphagnum moss while allowing the opposite side to dry somewhat between watering.

The colony should always have access to a reliably moist retreat, especially when temperatures are elevated.

• Diet: Dairy Cows consume large amounts of decaying organic material and should have plenty of leaf litter and decaying wood available at all times.

They also benefit from supplemental vegetables and other appropriate plant matter.

Unlike many smaller isopods, Dairy Cows have a relatively strong appetite for protein. Offer small amounts of protein-rich food such as dried shrimp, fish flakes, dried insects, or a formulated isopod diet on a regular basis.

Remove uneaten fresh food before it spoils.

• Calcium Needs: Provide a constant calcium source such as cuttlebone, crushed eggshell, calcium carbonate, or another appropriate calcium supplement.

Calcium is particularly important during growth and molting, and providing it continuously allows the colony to obtain what it needs naturally.

• Common Mistake:  Not providing enough protein.

Dairy Cows are especially enthusiastic eaters and generally benefit from more supplemental protein than many other common isopods.

Leaf litter and decaying wood should still make up the foundation of the diet, but regular supplemental protein can help support growth and reproduction.

• Enclosure: Zebra isopods do well in a well-ventilated enclosure with plenty of surface cover.

A 6-quart enclosure is suitable for a starter colony. Provide cork bark, hardwood pieces, leaf litter, and other hides throughout the enclosure.

Because Zebras prefer somewhat drier conditions than many tropical species, ventilation is particularly important.

• Substrate: Provide approximately 2–3 inches of organic substrate made from pesticide-free soil, decaying hardwood, and leaf litter.

Add plenty of dried leaves to the surface and provide pieces of cork or decaying wood for shelter.

Include a smaller moist area, preferably with sphagnum moss, while allowing most of the enclosure to remain comparatively dry.

• Ideal temperature: 72–80°F

They can tolerate somewhat cooler temperatures and short periods outside the ideal range, but prolonged exposure to excessive heat should be avoided.

Higher temperatures increase their need for accessible moisture.

• Humidity: Zebra isopods prefer a relatively dry setup with a moisture gradient.

A good starting point is to keep approximately ¼–⅓ of the enclosure moist, while allowing the remainder to stay dry.

The moist area should always remain available as a retreat, but the enclosure should not be kept uniformly damp. Consistently wet conditions can create problems with ventilation and molting.

• Diet: Dried leaf litter and decaying hardwood should make up the majority of their diet and should always be available. Supplement with small amounts of vegetables and other suitable plant matter.

Occasional protein can be provided through dried shrimp, fish flakes, dried insects, or a formulated isopod diet.

Remove fresh food once it begins to spoil.

• Calcium Needs: Provide a constant source of calcium such as cuttlebone, crushed eggshell, or calcium carbonate.

Calcium is necessary for proper exoskeleton development and successful molts.

• Common Mistake: Keeping Zebras too wet.

Because they are an Armadillidium species, Zebras benefit from having access to moisture, but they do not need the entire enclosure kept humid or saturated.

A smaller moist retreat surrounded by a predominantly dry environment is generally a better approach than frequent heavy misting.

• Enclosure: Powder Blue isopods are adaptable and can be kept in a variety of well-ventilated plastic enclosures.

A 6-quart enclosure is a good size for starting a colony. Larger colonies should eventually be moved into a larger enclosure as their population increases.

Provide plenty of surface cover using cork bark, hardwood, leaf litter, and other natural materials. Powder Blues are highly active and are often visible moving through the leaf litter and around the surface of the enclosure.

• Substrate: Provide approximately 2–3 inches of organic substrate containing pesticide-free soil, decaying hardwood, and plenty of dried leaf litter.

Decaying wood and leaf litter should always be available because they serve as both food and habitat.

Include a section of sphagnum moss or another moisture-retaining material to create a consistently moist retreat.

• Ideal temperature: 72–82°F

Powder Blues are tolerant of normal household temperature fluctuations and are generally very forgiving.

They can tolerate warmer temperatures for periods of time, but higher temperatures increase their need for moisture and ventilation. Avoid prolonged exposure to excessive heat.

• Humidity: Powder Blues prefer moderate humidity with a moisture gradient rather than an enclosure that is uniformly wet.

Keep one portion of the enclosure consistently moist while allowing the remainder to dry somewhat between watering.

A moist area containing sphagnum moss provides a reliable retreat when the colony needs additional moisture.

• Diet: Dried leaf litter and decaying hardwood should make up the foundation of their diet and should always be available.

Powder Blues are active scavengers and readily accept supplemental foods such as vegetables, formulated isopod diets, fish flakes, dried shrimp, and other appropriate sources of plant matter and protein.

Offer fresh foods in moderation and remove anything that begins to spoil.

Because Powder Blues reproduce quickly, a growing colony can consume supplemental food surprisingly fast.

• Calcium Needs: Provide a constant source of calcium such as cuttlebone, crushed eggshell, calcium carbonate, or another appropriate calcium source.

Calcium is essential for proper exoskeleton development and successful molting.

Keeping a calcium source permanently available allows the colony to regulate its own intake according to its needs.

• Common mistake: Letting the colony run out of leaf litter or moisture.

Powder Blues can reproduce extremely quickly once established, and a growing colony can consume available food and moisture surprisingly fast.

Keep a generous layer of leaf litter available at all times and regularly check the moist area to make sure it has not completely dried out.

What are springtails?

Springtails are tiny soil-dwelling arthropods belonging to the group Collembola. They are commonly used as part of bioactive cleanup crews because they feed on fungi, mold, algae, microorganisms, and decaying organic matter.

Springtails are harmless to reptiles, amphibians, invertebrates, plants, and people. When maintained as a colony, they can reproduce continuously and provide a reliable source of cleanup-crew organisms for bioactive enclosures.

Enclosure

A small plastic container with a secure lid works well for maintaining a springtail colony. Deli cups, food-storage containers, and other similar containers can all be used.

Springtails need high humidity and moisture, but some air exchange is beneficial. A container should not be completely airtight unless it is opened regularly for ventilation.

Keep the culture away from direct sunlight, heat lamps, and other sources of excessive heat.

A charcoal-based culture is particularly convenient because it is simple to maintain and makes harvesting springtails easy.

Substrate

Horticultural charcoal is an excellent substrate for maintaining springtail cultures.

Add a layer of clean charcoal to the culture container and keep it consistently moist. The charcoal provides plenty of surface area for springtails to move across and allows moisture to remain available throughout the culture.

A small amount of water can be maintained beneath the charcoal, allowing the charcoal to remain saturated without completely flooding the culture. Avoid allowing large amounts of stagnant water to accumulate.

Charcoal cultures are also easy to harvest: springtails can be collected from the surface of the charcoal or poured out with a small amount of culture water.

Temperature

Ideal temperature: 65–80°F

Springtails generally do well at stable room temperatures. Keeping the culture somewhere around 70–76°F is a practical target for many commonly cultured springtails.

Avoid prolonged exposure to extreme temperatures, especially temperatures above 80°F. Direct sunlight and heat sources can cause a small culture container to heat up very quickly.

Temperature preferences can vary between springtail species, so follow species-specific recommendations when available.

Humidity & Moisture

Consistently moist conditions are essential.

Springtails require moisture to remain active and reproduce. A charcoal culture should stay damp throughout, but it should not become stagnant, foul-smelling, or completely flooded.

Check the culture periodically and add clean water as needed. The frequency will depend on the size and ventilation of the container and the temperature of its surroundings.

Never allow the culture to completely dry out. A severely dried culture can experience a rapid population decline.

At the same time, avoid repeatedly flooding the culture. The goal is moist charcoal with available water, not a container full of standing water.

Diet

Springtails primarily feed on fungi, mold, algae, bacteria, biofilm, and decaying organic matter.

In a dedicated culture, they should be given small amounts of supplemental food. Brewer's yeast, baker's yeast, nutritional yeast, rice flour, or a formulated springtail food can all be used.

Feed sparingly. A tiny amount is usually sufficient, and food should not be allowed to accumulate in the culture.

Overfeeding is one of the easiest ways to cause problems. Excess food can spoil, encourage excessive mold growth, and degrade water quality within the culture. When in doubt, feed less rather than more.

Water

Use dechlorinated, purified, or otherwise suitable water when adding water to the culture.

Springtails obtain much of the moisture they need directly from their humid environment and culture substrate. You do not need to mist them like a reptile enclosure.

Instead, maintain the moisture level of the charcoal itself.

If your water source contains chlorine or other treatment chemicals, allowing the water to sit before use or using purified water can help avoid unnecessary exposure.

Harvesting

Once a culture is well established, springtails can be harvested as needed.

One simple method is to gently tap pieces of charcoal over the enclosure or container where the springtails are needed. Springtails can also be harvested by adding a small amount of water to the culture and pouring the springtail-filled water into the destination enclosure.

Avoid removing too much of the colony at one time. Leaving a healthy breeding population behind allows the culture to recover and continue producing.

Growing & Maintaining the Colony

A healthy springtail culture can continue producing for a very long time when moisture, food, and temperature remain stable.

As the population grows, you may notice increasing numbers of springtails gathering across the charcoal, particularly around food and moist areas.

If a culture becomes heavily populated, consider splitting it into a second container. Maintaining more than one culture is also a good way to create a backup in case one culture fails.

A second culture can be started by transferring some charcoal and springtails from the established colony into a fresh container with clean, moist charcoal.

Signs of a Healthy Culture

A healthy springtail culture will generally have:

• Active springtails visible on the charcoal

• Consistently moist substrate

• Little to no unpleasant odor

• Regular reproduction and increasing population

• Springtails gathering around food

• No excessive accumulation of uneaten food

Don't worry if you don't see thousands of springtails every time you open the container. Population visibility can fluctuate depending on temperature, moisture, feeding, and where the colony is concentrated.

Common Mistakes

Letting the culture dry out.
Springtails require consistent moisture. A culture that completely dries out can decline rapidly.

Overfeeding.
More food does not necessarily mean more springtails. Excess food can spoil and create poor culture conditions.

Overheating.
Small containers can heat up quickly in direct sunlight or near heat sources.

Flooding the culture.
Springtails need moisture, but stagnant or excessive water can create unhealthy conditions.

Harvesting too heavily.
Always leave enough springtails behind to maintain the breeding colony.

Using contaminated materials.
Never introduce pesticides, cleaning chemicals, treated wood, or contaminated substrate into a springtail culture.

💚 A Healthy Culture Is a Self-Sustaining Culture

Once established, springtail colonies are remarkably easy to maintain. Keep them moist, feed lightly, maintain a stable temperature, and give the colony time to reproduce.

With proper care, a single established culture can provide springtails for repeated use in bioactive enclosures while continuing to reproduce in its original container.

What do springtails do?

Springtails are an important part of a bioactive cleanup crew. They consume mold, fungi, algae, bacteria, and decaying organic matter, helping break down waste and recycle nutrients within the substrate.

They are especially useful for helping control small amounts of mold and decomposing organic material that naturally accumulate in a living enclosure.

Springtails are tiny, harmless, and generally remain within the substrate and leaf litter. They do not bite or sting and are safe to keep with reptiles, amphibians, invertebrates, and plants.

When should springtails be added?

Springtails can be added when establishing a new bioactive enclosure or introduced into an established enclosure.

For a new enclosure, adding springtails before the animal is introduced gives the colony time to spread throughout the substrate and establish itself.

If you're building a new bioactive enclosure, add your springtails after the substrate, plants, leaf litter, and other natural materials have been installed and properly moistened.

There is no need to wait for visible mold to appear. A healthy springtail population can help process organic material before mold becomes a significant problem.

How many springtails should I add?

There is no single perfect number because enclosure size, substrate depth, moisture, and the size of the culture all vary.

As a general starting point:

• Small enclosure: Add a generous portion of an established culture.

• Medium enclosure: Add several portions from an established culture.

• Large enclosure: Introduce a larger portion or multiple established cultures.

For a new bioactive enclosure, more is generally better than adding only a few individuals, provided you are starting with a healthy established culture.

Springtails reproduce once established, so the goal is to introduce enough of a population to give the colony a strong start rather than trying to maintain an exact number.

How do I introduce springtails?

Springtails are very easy to introduce.

With a charcoal culture, you can:

1. Gently tap pieces of charcoal directly over the substrate.

2. Place small pieces of colonized charcoal underneath the leaf litter.

3. Add a small amount of culture water containing springtails to the enclosure.

4. Distribute the springtails across several areas rather than concentrating the entire culture in one location.

There is no need to individually place springtails into the enclosure. Once introduced, they will move throughout the substrate on their own.

Moisture is essential

Springtails require consistently moist conditions to survive and reproduce.

A bioactive enclosure should have moist areas and a moisture gradient appropriate for the animal living in the enclosure. Springtails will naturally concentrate in the dampest portions of the substrate.

Avoid allowing the entire substrate to become completely dry for extended periods.

At the same time, do not flood the enclosure simply for the benefit of the springtails. The enclosure's moisture level should always be appropriate for the primary animal and plants.

If your reptile or amphibian requires a relatively dry enclosure, provide a reliably moist area within the substrate where the springtail population can thrive.

Do springtails need to be fed?

Sometimes.

A well-established bioactive enclosure can provide springtails with a considerable amount of naturally occurring food through decaying leaves, plant material, microorganisms, fungi, and animal waste.

However, supplemental feeding can help support a larger population, particularly in a new enclosure or an enclosure with very little decomposing organic material.

Small amounts of nutritional yeast, brewer's yeast, or a formulated springtail food can be added occasionally.

Feed sparingly. You should never need to add large amounts of food.

If food remains uneaten, you're feeding too much.

Springtails and isopods

Springtails and isopods make an excellent combination in a bioactive cleanup crew.

Isopods primarily consume decaying organic material, leaf litter, wood, and supplemental foods, while springtails specialize in consuming microorganisms, fungi, and smaller decomposing particles.

They occupy somewhat different ecological niches and can work together to keep the substrate cleaner.

If both are present, provide plenty of leaf litter, decaying wood, and appropriate moisture so that the cleanup crew has the resources it needs.

What if I don't see my springtails?

Don't panic!

Springtails spend much of their time underneath the substrate, within leaf litter, around plant roots, and in other moist areas.

It is completely normal to go several days without seeing many springtails.

A healthy population may become visible when you disturb the substrate, lift a piece of bark, or add food.

If you want to check whether they are still present, place a tiny amount of suitable food in a moist area and check it later. Springtails will often gather around an available food source.

What if I see mold?

A small amount of mold is normal in a new bioactive enclosure.

In fact, the appearance of some mold or fungal growth can provide an immediate food source for springtails.

As the springtail population establishes itself, they will consume many of the microorganisms and fungal growths developing within the enclosure.

You generally do not need to remove every small patch of mold manually.

However, large amounts of persistent mold can indicate that the enclosure has too much moisture, too much decaying food, insufficient ventilation, or an immature cleanup crew.

Remove excessive uneaten food and allow the enclosure to stabilize rather than continually adding more food.

How long does it take for springtails to establish?

Give the colony time.

Springtails reproduce continuously when conditions are favorable, but a newly introduced population may take several weeks to become well established.

You may not notice a dramatic increase in population immediately.

Maintaining appropriate moisture, providing suitable organic material, and avoiding excessive disturbance will give the colony the best opportunity to establish.

Do I need to replace springtails?

A healthy, established springtail population can reproduce within the enclosure and maintain itself indefinitely when suitable conditions are available.

However, populations naturally fluctuate.

You may choose to periodically add more springtails if:

• The enclosure has been unusually dry.

• The cleanup crew population has declined.

• The enclosure has undergone a major substrate change.

• The animal produces more waste than the current cleanup crew can process.

• You simply want to increase the population.

Adding a fresh culture is a simple way to reinforce an established bioactive cleanup crew.

Common mistakes

Adding springtails and immediately expecting to see thousands.
Give the population time to establish.

Keeping the enclosure too dry.
Springtails need access to moisture.

Flooding the enclosure.
More moisture is not always better. Follow the humidity and moisture requirements of the primary animal.

Overfeeding.
Springtails don't need piles of food. Excess food can create more problems than it solves.

Removing all mold immediately.
Small amounts of mold are a normal part of a developing bioactive ecosystem and provide food for springtails.

Disturbing the substrate constantly.
Allow the cleanup crew time to establish without repeatedly digging through their habitat.

🌱 Building a Balanced Bioactive Ecosystem

A successful bioactive enclosure is a living ecosystem, not a sterile environment.

Springtails, isopods, plants, fungi, microorganisms, substrate, leaf litter, and the animal itself all contribute to that ecosystem.

The goal isn't to eliminate every microorganism, mold spore, or piece of waste. Instead, the goal is to create an environment where natural decomposition and nutrient cycling can occur faster and more effectively.

Give your springtails the moisture, food sources, and time they need, and they can become a valuable long-term part of your bioactive cleanup crew.

💚 A little SM Exotics tip

Don't judge your springtail colony by how many you can see.

If your enclosure is healthy, you may rarely notice them. That's okay! They're doing their job beneath the leaf litter and inside the substrate where you can't see them.

If you occasionally see a few springtails when you lift a piece of bark or disturb the substrate, that's usually a good sign that your cleanup crew is active and established.